TREATMENT OF PIGMENTATION AND SUN SPOTS 

There are different types of pigmentation, including melasma, which often occurs during or after pregnancy, freckles, and deeper freckles called solar lentigos. Pigmentation can also result from inflammation caused by conditions such as acne, and wounds can develop a darker color, especially in sun-exposed parts of the body.

The leading causes of excessive pigmentation are

1. A family tendency- pigmentation problems often run in families.
2. Solar ultraviolet radiation exposure- the commonest cause of excessive pigmentation or unwanted brown spots like freckles.

 

Solarium use causes much more severe pigmentation problems later in life. That lovely even tan you had when you were 20 has turned into unwanted little islands of brown patches by the time you’re 40 or so!

1. Hormones- as I mentioned above, pregnancy, but also contraceptive birth control pills.
2. Inflammation and trauma to the skin.
3. Some medications can cause excessive pigmentation, especially when combined with unprotected solar exposure- the commonest medications being anti-inflammatory drugs used to treat arthritis, and doxycycline antibiotics.

For a comprehensive review of this topic, please check out this article from a dermatologist on a reddit forum:

https://www.reddit.com/r/30PlusSkinCare/comments/13vsnrv/a_comprehensive_guide_to_hyperpigmentation_and/

So to summarise, there are a lot of products, and you should only start one at a time, then after a week or 2 and if you are not experiencing any irritation, start the second product, and so on…

Regarding the cleanser and moisturizer to use, I recommend checking my separate articles, which explain which cleanser or moisturizer is best for your skin type.

Daily Hyperpigmentation Treatment Regime

 

* If you haven’t used these products before (apart from the cleanser and moisturizer) you should only use one new product for at least a week before adding a second product, to reduce and identify the cause of any irritation that may occur.

*Apply products from thinnest to thickest consistency.

*The 10% Azelaic Acid Booster should be applied after your normal cleansing, toning and exfoliating steps

Gradual Introduction

Start with lower frequencies and build tolerance, especially with retinol and chemical exfoliants.

Consistency is Key

You will need to use these creams and serums that are specially formulated to brighten your skin  for 8-12 weeks to see significant results.

Be careful not to use both the retinoid and tranexamic acid products on the same day, as they can irritate your skin.

The author of the article provides some good common-sense advice:

“If you can build up a tolerance to using them both (the tranexamic acid and retinoid) without damaging your skin barrier, ( ie causing minimal or no irritation) they work well together. But never use them on the same day.

If you want to use both, use them on alternate nights and give yourself a night or two without either, to let your skin recover. For me personally, I do retinoids on Sundays, and Wednesdays, chemical exfoliants (La Roche Posay Glycolic B5 serum) on Mondays and Thursdays, and I let my skin rest (cleanse, moisturize, squalene oil only ) on Tuesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays.”

Some other products the author of the article did not mention but that would also be effective, I describe below, the Naturium Multi-Bright treatment, for example, has added brightening effect with niacinamide and licorice root extract, and can be used the same way as the La Roche Posay Glycolic B5 serum described above.

Naturium Multi-Bright Tranexamic Acid Treatment 5%

This product is formulated with a potent level of tranexamic acid, plus kojic acid, niacinamide, and licorice root extract for brighter looking skin. It has potent anti-inflammatory and skin lightening effects.

SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense

This is a combination kojic and tranexamic acid product, and is recommended by experts as a leave-on treatment, used twice a day. Testers said it effectively faded away dark spots and made skin look clearer.

Here’s how to properly use SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense Serum:

When to Use:

• Apply twice daily (morning and evening)
• Use after cleansing and toning, before moisturizer

How to Apply:

1. Amount: Use 2-3 drops for the entire face
2. Application: Apply evenly to face, neck, and chest
3. Technique: Gently pat and spread the serum into skin
4. Follow-up: Allow to absorb completely before applying moisturizer

Another skin lightening product worth considering is

Another Total Depigmentation Regime Option-The Ordinary The Bright Set

The Bright Set contains three targeted formulations that contain brightening ingredients to help visibly improve uneven skin tone, while brightening dull skin. Contents include:

• Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner is a daily AHA exfoliating toner that helps prep the skin by exfoliating the skin’s surface. This formulation helps to boost skin brightness, while also smoothing the feel of skin texture and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
• Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA is a daily serum that helps even skin tone appearance, while reducing the look of dark spots. The formulation contains a high 2% concentration of alpha-arbutin, a known effective skin-lightening agent.
• Caffeine Solution 5% + EGCG is a depuffing eye serum that helps brighten tired eyes. With a 5% concentration of caffeine combined with a highly-purified EGCG (Green Tea Extract), the formulation helps brighten the appearance of dark circles around the eye area while also reducing puffiness.

It comes in a 3-pack and is a complete treatment for skin discolouration / pigmentation. I haven’t used it but it has good reviews and before-and-after photos. The directions for use are pretty easy to follow:

In the morning: Prep the skin with your preferred Cleanser. Apply  Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA. Followed by Caffeine Solution 5% + EGCG. Seal with your preferred moisturiser and sunscreen.

In the evening: Prep the skin with your preferred Cleanser. Followed by Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner. Treat with Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA. Followed by Caffeine Solution 5% + EGCG. Seal with your preferred moisturiser.

Important Usage Guidelines:

Morning Routine:

• Always follow with broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen is crucial, as the depigmenting serum  can increase photosensitivity ( sun-sensitivity).

Evening Routine:

• Can be layered with other serums if needed
• Apply before heavier creams or oils

What to Expect:

Timeline:

• Initial results may be visible in 2-4 weeks
• Optimal results are typically seen after 8-12 weeks of consistent use
• Continue daily use for maintained results

Skin Sensitivity:

• Some users may experience mild irritation initially
• If irritation occurs, reduce to once daily or every other day
• Gradually increase frequency as skin tolerates

Pro Tips:

• Consistency is key for best results
• Can be used on all skin types and tones
• Safe for long-term use
• Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight

Always patch test before first use and consult a dermatologist if you have sensitive skin or concerns.

Depigmenting Agents

How Depigmenting Agents Work

The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA Serum has several effects:

Alpha arbutin blocks an enzyme that produces melanin, which is the brown pigment in your skin. It fades dark spots, but you won’t see significant results for at least four weeks.

HA is Hyaluronic Acid, which provides a moist skin environment, allowing arbutin to penetrate deeply for maximum effect.

The 2% strength is strong enough to see results, but gentle enough for daily use, even for sensitive skin. It is light so that it won’t clog pores.

It has been shown to target melanocytes that are overproducing pigment, with a controlled release effect.

You will start to see significant results after 4-6 weeks of regular use.

SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic Serum

Contains Vitamin C at high strength, Vitamin E, and Ferulic Acid.

Vitamin C is a potent lightening agent, and this product contains a high dosage at 15%. Vitamin E and Ferulic acid stabilize Vitamin C and add to its brightening effects.

You will see some brightening effects within a month of commencing treatment (provided you are not still spending too much time in the sun without adequate protection!)

Cos De Baha Tranexamic Acid 5% + Niacinamide Serum has several compounds that together have a strong depigmenting effect.

Tranexamic Acid (5%) is the major ingredient here. It inhibits plasmin activity, which is one of the main melanin stimulators, thereby reducing pigment production. It is especially effective against deep, stubborn pigmentation, as is seen in melasma and solar lentigos (deep freckles).

TA also has potent anti-inflammatory effects, which reduce excessive pigment formation.

The Niacinamide blocks the transfer of melanin to the upper levels of the skin. Also, pigmented cells are shed more quickly, and new, less pigmented cells are produced.

You will see an initial improvement in 4-6 weeks.

Cos De Baha Tranexamic Acid 5% + Niacinamide is most effective for:

• Melasma (particularly effective)
• Post-acne marks
• Sun damage and age spots
• Sensitive skin requiring gentle pigmentation treatment

For best results, build up to using it twice daily if your skin tolerates this (most people do), but be careful if you have sensitive skin. Always use a good moisturizer and sunscreen, and give it time to work.

Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster reduces pigmentation through multiple effects:

Azelaic acid reduces the production of melanin by melanocytes, by blocking the enzyme tyrosinase. It makes melanin production more even, so is a good choice for uneven skin pigmentation.

It sheds pigmented skin cells and decreases inflammatory compounds in the skin that stimulate melanin production.

Another effect of azelaic acid is to reduce the number of acne-causing bacteria in the skin, so it is suitable for people who have pigmentation problems due to inflammatory acne.

The 10% concentration provides potent effects with minimal irritation. It can be mixed with other products or used on its own. It combines well with Vitamin C, and niacinamide.

The general guidelines are to start using this product every second day.

As I have put in the table, it can be used with other lightening agents over a week’s treatment schedule.

You will see initial improvement in skin pigmentation after about 4 weeks of regular use; however, the best results won’t occur until you have been using the azelaic acid for about 3 months.