Complete Guide to Skincare Exfoliants

Why Use Exfoliants?

Exfoliants remove dead skin cells from the surface of your skin, producing fresher, smoother skin underneath. They help improve skin texture, unclog pores, reduce hyperpigmentation, and improve absorption and effectiveness of other skin products.

With regular use you will notice:

After 1-2 weeks: Smoother texture

After 4-6 weeks: Improved skin tone

By 8-12 weeks: Reduced hyperpigmentation

By 3-6 months: Significant improvement in fine lines

Types of Exfoliants

 Physical (Mechanical) Exfoliants

Remove dead skin through physical scrubbing action.

Examples:

• Scrubs with beads, sugar, or salt
• Cleansing brushes
• Washcloths
• Microdermabrasion

These methods provide immediate results and are suitable for rough areas. However, they should be avoided if your skin is inflamed or sensitive. Additionally, avoid using physical exfoliants on areas where your skin is naturally thinner, such as your lower eyelids and neck.

Use them carefully as they can cause micro-tears and irritation if overused.

 Chemical Exfoliants

These mild acidic compounds dissolve dead skin cells and unclog pores. They are AHAs, BHAs and PHAs:

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

Are water-soluble acids that work on your skin surface.

*Glycolic Acid is the most potent, good for anti-aging, sun damage

Examples of Glycolic Acid-based exfoliants:

-Paula’s Choice 8% AHA Gel

-The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution

       -Pixi Glow Tonic

*Lactic acid–based exfoliants are gentler than glycolic acid-based ones:

-The Ordinary Lactic Acid 5% + HA

-Sunday Riley Good Genes

      -CeraVe SA Smoothing Cleanser

*Mandelic Acid- The gentlest, for very sensitive skin

– The Ordinary Mandelic Acid 10% + HA

– Stratia Soft Touch AHA

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)

These oil-soluble acids penetrate pores.

BHAs contain Salicylic Acid of different strengths 0.5-2%

They are especially effective for patients with oily skin, tendency to acne, blackheads, effective BHAs include:

-Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant

-CeraVe SA Cleanser

       -The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution

3) Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs)

These are the most gentle chemical exfoliants because of their larger molecules, and are comprised of Gluconolactone.

These mild acids are best for people with very sensitive, easily irritated skin, such as rosacea.

Examples of gluconolactone PHAs in skin care:

* NeoStrata Bionic Face Cream

* Avène RetrinAL Intensive Cream

*Lactobionic Acid, which is suitable for older patients with sensitive skin

• NeoStrata products

 

Weekly Exfoliation Schedule

 

Key Usage Guidelines

Frequency Recommendations

•  Acid exfoliants can be used daily depending on strength and skin tolerance
• Only use exfoliants twice per week when starting
•  2% BHA is mild enough for daily use

Skin Cycle Approach

 The “official skin cycle” recommends one night for exfoliating, one night for retinoids, and two nights for hydration, suggesting you can incorporate this pattern while still using gentle daily exfoliants.

About Different Products:

•  CeraVe offers gentle daily use with both glycolic and lactic acids
• Clinique Clarifying Lotion allows daily use without waiting for dirt to build up
•  Paula’s Choice 2% BHA comes in three different forms to suit different  skin types

Start slowly with new products and adjust frequency based on your skin’s tolerance and response.

Example Beginner Exfoliation Regime (Weeks 1-4)

Mon-Wed-Fridays: Regular routine- BHA or gentle AHA (2-3x/week)

Other days: Regular routine-Hydrating products only (moisturizers)

Intermediate Regime (After 4-6 weeks)

Mon-Wed-Fri-Sun: Regular routine-Alternate BHA/AHA

Tue-Thu: Regular routine-Hydrating products

Saturday: Regular routine-Weekly stronger treatment

Advanced Regime (After 3+ months)

Monday -Gentle AHA-Lactic Acid 5%

Tuesday- BHA Salicylic Acid 2%

Wednesday- Rest day -Hydrating serum

Thursday- AHA Glycolic Acid 7%

Friday- BHA Salicylic Acid 2%

Saturday- Strong treatment AHA 30% + BHA 2% peel- for example The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution

Sunday– Rest/recovery Hydrating mask

How to Use Exfoliants

Application Steps:

1. Cleanse skin thoroughly
2. Wait 5-10 minutes for skin to dry
3. Apply exfoliant to clean, dry skin
4. Start with thin layer, avoid eye area
5. Wait 10-20 minutes before next product
6. Follow with moisturizer
7. Always use SPF the next morning

Frequency Guidelines:

• Beginners: 1-2x per week
• Intermediate: 3-4x per week
• Advanced: Daily (alternating types)
• Sensitive skin: 1x per week maximum

Product Recommendations by Skin Type

Oily/Acne-Prone Skin

• Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant (daily)
• The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution
• CeraVe SA Cleanser (gentle daily option)

Dry/Mature Skin

• Sunday Riley Good Genes (lactic acid)
• The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution
• Paula’s Choice 8% AHA Gel

Sensitive Skin

• The Ordinary Mandelic Acid 10% + HA
• Paula’s Choice CALM 1% BHA Lotion
• CeraVe SA Smoothing Cleanser

Combination Skin

• Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid (T-zone)
• The Ordinary Lactic Acid 5% (dry areas)
• Pixi Glow Tonic (can be used over the whole face due to its gentleness)

Professional Treatments You Should Not Do Yourself:

Chemical Peels

Light peels: 15-30% glycolic acid

Medium peels: TCA peels

Deep peels: Phenol (rare)

Safety Guidelines

Do’s:

Start slowly with low concentrations

Always use SPF 30+ the next day

Patch test new products

Moisturize after exfoliating

Listen to your skin

Don’ts:

Use multiple strong exfoliants together

Exfoliate broken or irritated skin

Skip sunscreen

Over-exfoliate (leads to irritation)

Use physical scrubs on active acne

Warning Signs to Stop Using an Exfoliant:

• Excessive redness or burning
• Increased breakouts after 6-8 weeks
• Persistent irritation
• Skin feels tight or raw
• Increased sensitivity to products

Exfoliant Combinations to Avoid:

• Retinoids + Strong AHAs/BHAs (same night)
• Vitamin C + AHAs (can cause irritation)
• Multiple acids at once (beginners)
• Physical + Chemical exfoliants same day

Expected Timeline for Results:

• 1-2 weeks: Smoother texture
• 4-6 weeks: Improved skin tone
• 8-12 weeks: Reduced hyperpigmentation
• 3-6 months: Significant improvement in fine lines

Always consult a dermatologist for persistent skin concerns or before starting aggressive exfoliation routines.