AHA-BHA Skin Creams

AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) are obtained from fruits, milk and sugar; they cause exfoliation (removal of dead and unhealthy skin cells) and new skin regeneration.

BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) are usually a form of salicylic acid derived from willow bark; they have anti- inflammatory and pore-cleansing effects.

These are the common types of AHAs used in skin care:

 

 

1. Glycolic Acid

This Is sourced from sugar cane; the small molecules allow penetration deep into your skin.

They are effective in treating aged skin, including pigmentation and fine lines, and sun-damaged skin. The concentration ranges from 5% to 30%

2. Lactic Acid

This AHA is obtained from fermented milk or sugar and has a larger molecule than glycolic acid. It is gentler and more hydrating, thus making it more suitable for people with sensitive and/or dry skin. It has the added benefit of being a moisturizer.

3. Mandelic Acid

Mandelic acid is obtained from almonds, has the largest molecule and is the most gentle AHA, so it is the best one to use if you have very sensitive skin; it is slower to act but less likely to irritate.

4. Citric Acid

This comes from citrus fruits, has antioxidant and pH (skin acidity) adjusting effects, which encourage healthy functioning of the skin’s natural barrier and mantle.

Common BHAs:

Salicylic Acid (Primary BHA)

This is obtained originally from the bark of the Willow tree (aspirin is salicylic acid) but it is now produced synthetically. Concentrations in skin care range from 0.5% to 2.0%, it has strong anti-inflammatory effects and is good for treating oily skin, acne, and rosacea.

What Will Using AHAs Do for Your Skin?

*Surface smoothing – you will notice texture improvement within a day or two

*Hyperpigmentation reduction – fading of dark spots

*Fine line softening – by stimulating collagen production

*Improved product absorption- by better skin barrier layer function

*Improved skin radiance – more new cells are produced

*Even skin tone – improves hyperpigmentation caused by sun damage

How will it help your skin to use BHA Products?

*Deep pore cleansing – unclogs from within

*Blackhead reduction – dissolves pore contents

*Acne prevention – reduces bacterial growth

*Oil control – by regulating sebum (natural body oils) production

*Anti-inflammatory – calms irritated skin

*Pore appearance – reduces visible oil gland (pores) size

Skin Type Recommendations:

You should use AHAs if you have:

*Dry to normal skin.

*Dull rough skin.

*Sun damage with pigmentation/ age spots

*Aging skin

You should use BHAs if you have:

*Oily or combination skin

*Acne-prone skin

*Large pores

*Blackheads/whiteheads

*Sensitive skin (salicylic acid is anti-inflammatory)

Consider both if you have:

*Combination skin with multiple concerns

*Acne AND aging concerns

*Very inflamed/irritated/ congested skin

How to Use AHAs and BHAs:

To Start:

*Patch test first for 24-48 hours- apply a pea sized amount to the inside of your upper arm and observe for any signs of redness or irritation, if so, wait for two days and try again. If the irritation recurs, then try again after a week. And remember, you may not become sensitive to a product for several weeks after commencing use of it. But most patients will not have a problem if they start with the lowest dose, as explained below.

*Start with lowest concentration

*Use once weekly initially and gradually increase to 2-3 times weekly

*Don’t use exfoliant more than once a day without professional advice

Starting Protocol:

*Week 1-2: Use once weekly

*Week 3-4: Increase to twice weekly

*Month 2+: Can use every other day (if minimal or no irritation)

*Always: Start with lowest concentration

How to Use:

1. Cleanse skin thoroughly
2. Only apply the acid to dry skin
3. Wait 10-15 minutes before applying the next product
4. Follow with hydrating products
5. Don’t forget to use a SPF 50+ sunscreen at least twice a day if you are going to spend more than an hour a day outside- sunscreens stop working after about 3 hours, depending on the SPF.

Sun Sensitivity:

AHAs increase sun sensitivity for up to 7 days

Daily SPF 50+ is mandatory—please see my article about Sunscreens for further information; my preferred sunscreen is La Roche-Posay Anthelios Wet Skin Sunscreen which has an SPF of  72– contains Vitamin C and Vitamin E, effective for 4 hours even in water.

So consider only using AHAs in the evening.

Potential Side Effects:

Redness, some stinging but this usually only for a few days

Over-exfoliation if used too frequently

Increased sensitivity to other products

Don’t Use AHAs/BHAs if any of these apply to you:

Pregnancy: Some acids require caution

Certain skin conditions such as eczema, severe rosacea

If you have had recent procedures: Laser, chemical peels

Application Tips:

1. Evening use only (because they cause increased sun sensitivity)
2. Apply to clean, dry skin
3. Wait 10-15 minutes before applying other products
4. Follow with hydrating serum /moisturizer
5. SPF 50+ sunscreen is essential -such as La Roche-Posay Anthelios Wet Skin Sunscreen

 Skin Type Recommendations:

• Oily/Acne-prone: Focus on BHA (Paula’s Choice)
• Dry/Mature: Emphasize AHA (Drunk Elephant)
• Combination: Alternate or use combination products
• Sensitive: Start with lower concentrations

Side Effects to Monitor:

• Redness, peeling, stinging (normal initially)
• Excessive dryness or burning (->reduce frequency)
• You may experience increased acne breakouts; if so then seek professional advice

Avoid mixing AHAs/BHAs with:

• Retinoids (use on alternate nights)
• Vitamin C (can cause irritation)
• Benzoyl Peroxide (may deactivate AHA & BHA  acids)

Sun Protection is essential:

• AHA/BHA increases sun sensitivity for up to 7 days
• Use broad-spectrum SPF 50+ daily
• Reapply sunscreen every 2 hours
• Consider avoiding being outside during peak sun exposure periods (10 am to 4 pm)

Expected Results

Week 1-2:

You may notice some irritation for the first few days, and you will start to see and feel your skin texture becoming smoother

Week 4-6:

You will feel major improvement in your skin’s texture, it will be smoother and brighter, and the BHA will cause reduced acne breakouts.

Month 3+:

You will notice improved skin texture, with reduced pigmentation and pore size, and your skin will have a brighter and healthier appearance.

Recommended Products:

 Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant

Main Features:

2% Salicylic Acid (BHA) – this has been found to be the best concentration for effectiveness while causing least irritation

Lightweight, liquid formula that absorbs quickly

It is pH-balanced for good exfoliation

Price Range: Mid-range ($32-38)

Best For: Oily/acne-prone skin, blackheads, enlarged pores

Results: Clearer pores, smoother texture, reduced breakouts

Fragrance-free, suitable for sensitive skin

Application: Apply with cotton pad or hands after cleansing

The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution

Contains 30% AHA blend (Glycolic, Lactic, Tartaric, Citric acids)

2% BHA (Salicylic Acid) –> deep pore cleansing

This is a weekly treatment mask – not daily use

Price Range: Budget-friendly ($8-12)

Best For: Experienced users, intensive weekly treatment

Causes significant skin resurfacing, with improved texture and tone

Warning: Very potent – patch test essential first

Application: 10 minutes max, once weekly, evening only

Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum

Contains 12% AHA blend (Glycolic, Lactic, Tartaric, Citric, Malic acids)+1% BHA (Salicylic Acid) + 1% Azelaic Acid

Also has  raspberry extract and Horse Chestnut for soothing, anti-inflammatory effects

Price Range: Premium ($90-110)

Best For: All skin types, comprehensive resurfacing

Effects: improved texture, reduced hyperpigmentation, smoother skin

Application: Evening use, 2-3x per week initially

Budget-Conscious Approach:

Start with The Ordinary for weekly treatments, then upgrade to Paula’s Choice for daily use.

Please remember that these are potent ingredients—patience and gradual introduction are key to avoiding irritation while achieving optimal results.